Although contemporary Greek cuisine is often associated with rich meats, seafood, and dairy products, there is a rich history of vegan elements woven throughout traditional Greek cooking since ancient times. 

LET’S START AT THE BEGINNING: THE ANCIENT GREEK CUISINE

Ancient Greek cuisine was characterized by its frugality. It was largely based on the “Mediterranean triad” of cereals (mainly wheat and barley), olives, and grapes, and leaned heavily towards consuming legumes and nuts. Olive trees have been grown and harvested in Greece since at least the mid-4th millennium BC, likely earlier, and the “golden liquid” of the Greek land, e.g.olive oil, was traded across the length and breadth of the Mediterranean throughout antiquity.

Ancient Greeks had simple meals and eating habits. They started their days with plain breakfasts of bread dipped in wine called akratisma, which was sometimes complemented by figs, dates, or olives. They also ate a sort of fried pancake called tiganitis, still popular as a breakfast today after 2.500 years!

Around noon or shortly after, they would have a quick meal called ariston with bread, olive oil, cheese, and fruit, and a snack called esperisma before their most important meal of the day, dinner or deipnon which included a selection of legumes, as well as bread, cheese, olives, eggs, fruits, and nuts. 

Soups, made from lentils—the workman’s dish—beans, and vegetables (onions, garlic, cabbage, and turnips), would have also been a regular feature in their diet.

Meat consumption was rare due to its perceived barbarism, while fresh and salted fish were more popular sources of nutrition. This trend continued in Roman and Ottoman times and changed only fairly recently when technological progress made meat more readily available.

Other sources of animal protein included milk and cheese, from sheep and goats, and oxygala, an early ancestor of yogurt.

Dessert consisted of fresh or dried fruits, honey, and nuts, while wine was the basic drink of ancient Greeks. They always added water to their wine to prevent dizziness. Drinking unmixed wine was considered a barbaric habit likely to lead to madness and death. For them, wine consumption was considered helpful in liberating their thoughts and feelings and creating meaningful conversations. The ancient Greeks also sweetened their wine with honey and made therapeutic concoctions by adding thyme, pennyroyal, and other herbs.

PYTHAGORAS: THE FATHER OF VEGANISM?

The concept of veganism in Greece isn’t just a modern trend. Rooted in the ethical treatment of animals and the environment, it can be traced back to the philosophical teachings of Pythagoras in the 6th century BC and Plato in the late 5th century BC. Pythagoras, in particular, was a vocal advocate for animal rights and the benefits of a plant-based diet.

THE FIRST FUSION CUISINE AND THE FIRST COOKBOOK IN THE WORLD

In 334 B.C., Alexander the Great extended the Greek Empire’s reach from Europe to India. As a result, certain northern and eastern influences were absorbed into the Greek culinary repertoire, making it the very first example of “fusion’ cuisine.

Archestratus, a poet and philosopher from ancient Greece, is credited with writing the first cookbook in history in 320 B.C. Known as the Father of Gastronomy, Archestratus wrote a humorous didactic poem called Hedypatheia that offered advice on finding the best food in the Mediterranean and revealed secrets of ancient Greek cuisine.

Archestratus is also credited with coining the term “gastronomy,” which means “Rules (-nomy) of the Stomach (gastro).” He presented five golden rules about cooking and eating that remain valuable today, including using high-quality raw materials, combining ingredients harmoniously, avoiding hot sauces and spices, preferring lighter sauces, and using spices in moderation.

OLIVE RELISH: AN ANCIENT GREEK VEGAN RECIPE!

‘How to make green, black, or mixed olive relish. Remove stones from green, black, or mixed olives, then prepare as follows: Chop them and add oil, vinegar, coriander, cumin, fennel, rue, and mint. Pot them: the oil should cover them. Ready to use.’

Cato, On Agriculture 119

The recipe from Cato dates to about 200 BC, but olives provided relish and flavouring all through ancient times. At classical Greek banquets, olives were served in brine, and sometimes, no doubt, they were served as relishes like this.

Cato’s recipe uses cumin, but it can overpower the herbs, so it is listed as optional below. Fennel leaf will not always be easy to find, so the chopped root will serve as a substitute.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

  • 120g black olives

  • 120g green olives

  • 4 tbsp red wine vinegar

  • 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

  • 1 heaped tsp chopped fennel leaf or finely diced fennel root

  • 1/2 level tsp ground cumin (optional)

  • 2 tsp chopped fresh coriander

  • 2 tsp dried or chopped fresh rue (you can use a bitter herb or spice such as fenugreek seed as a substitute)

  • 2 heaped tsp dried or 3 tsp chopped fresh mint

Method:

Chop the olives roughly and pour on the vinegar and olive oil. Prepare the herbs, chopping them finely if fresh, and add to the mixture. Place the olive relish in a sealable container and pour a little olive oil over the top. At this stage, it can be eaten, as Cato firmly says, but it does improve with a few days of marinating. Try it with pitta bread.

This recipe is found in The Classical Cookbook by Andrew Dalby and Sally Grainger.

GREEK CUISINE EVOLUTION AND INFLUENCES

In 146 B.C., Greece fell to the Romans, which resulted in a blending of Roman influence into Greek cooking.  Roman dishes were often more elaborate, and they introduced the Greeks to ingredients such as oysters and truffles. 

The Byzantine Empire, which succeeded the Roman Empire, maintained the fusion of Greek and Roman culinary traditions while also absorbing elements from the Middle East and North Africa, particularly in the use of spices. This era saw the rise of elaborate plant-based dishes that showcased the diversity of ingredients available in the region. New ingredients were added to Greek cuisine, such as caviar, nutmeg, lemons, and basil, with fish continuing to be an integral part of the diet. 

Also, the rise of Eastern Orthodox Christianity emphasized the importance of fasting and abstinence from meat. This has contributed to the development of a rich repertoire of vegetarian and vegan dishes, particularly during periods such as Lent, when the consumption of animal products is restricted. Dishes like fasolada (bean soup), spanakopita (spinach pie), dolmadakia yalantzi (stuffed with rice and herbs grape leaves), and gigantes plaki (giant baked beans) became even more popular.

Even today, the easiest way to ask in Greece if a dish is vegan is to ask if it is νηστίσιμο (pronounced [neesteessimo] and means Lenten food or Lent-fasting-friendly).

One of the most significant influences on Greek cuisine comes from the Ottoman Empire, which ruled over Greece for nearly four centuries. During this time, Ottoman culinary traditions merged with Greek cooking, resulting in the incorporation of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and cumin, as well as cooking techniques such as braising and using yogurt in dishes like tzatziki. Classic Greek dishes like baklava and souvlaki bear the imprint of this cultural fusion.

The Venetian occupation of certain Greek islands also left its mark on the cuisine. Venetian traders introduced new ingredients, such as pasta, which became popular in dishes like pastitsio, a Greek take on lasagna. Additionally, the Venetians brought a penchant for seafood, leading to the prominence of dishes like seafood risotto and squid ink pasta in certain regions.

THE ORIGIN OF THE MOST POPULAR GREEK DISH: MOUSSAKA

One of the most iconic vegan staples in Greek cuisine is the humble eggplant. Its Latin/French name “aubergine” comes from the historical city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in Greece! Discovering this new vegetable during his conquest, Alexander the Great wanted to bring it back to his country on his return. After his death, members of his army brought aubergine seeds with them to Greece and specifically to the city of Vergina (Βεργίνα) in 325 BC! The Latin/French term aubergine is coined to Franco-Catalan gastronomist Sergius Rosario Silvestri, co-traveller and close friend to Amerigo Vespucci. Upon arrival at the historical site of Vergina in 1505 AD and wanting to try the local delicacies, Silvestri came across the plant of aubergine. Not knowing its name, he referred to it as aubergine (au Bergine or au Vergine), which in French means at Vergina or found at Vergina. This purple powerhouse is nowadays used in many dishes like the famous moussaka, where it’s layered with tomatoes and herbs to create a rich, satisfying flavor profile. 

Many people believe that this famous Greek dish was created in the Palatian kitchens of the Ottoman Empire, but moussaka (μουσακάς), as we know it today, did not exist till the end of the 19th century. The dish existed before -under the same name – meaning “moistened” in Arabic and was just a dish made out of fried eggplants and tomato sauce in the Middle East. Greece’s most influential chef, Nikolaos Tselementes, in his effort to modernize Greek cuisine, married French cuisine with Greek tradition, and voilà! Three layers of goodness were created, made with sauteed eggplants, minced meat in sweet-spiced tomato, and bechamel sauce on top.      

Another version of it is papoutsakia, meaning little shoes, which consist of whole eggplants stuffed with minced meat and topped with bechamel.

VEGANISM ON THE ISLAND OF CRETE TODAY

Throughout history, Greek cuisine has evolved and adapted, incorporating various vegan elements that reflect the region’s agricultural abundance and cultural heritage. In modern times, Greece has seen a resurgence of interest in veganism, with many young Greeks embracing a plant-based lifestyle as a way to reconnect with their cultural heritage. From vegan souvlaki to vegan moussaka, innovative chefs and food bloggers are reimagining traditional Greek dishes with a modern, plant-based twist.

In Crete, the island’s rich agricultural heritage has given rise to an extra-thriving vegan community, where local farmers and chefs are working together to create innovative, plant-based dishes that showcase the island’s unique flavors and ingredients. Crete is fast becoming a vegan paradise.

So the next time you’re in Crete, seek out some of the amazing vegan options – your taste buds (and your conscience) will thank you. Opa!

Now, you and your friends can join a most authentic Vegan Tour of Crete!